There was a moment, as I was driving my truck a few weeks ago with my two dogs in the cab and my horse in the trailer, that I got nervous. I was driving north on highway 285 to Parker, Colorado, just south of Denver, for a horse show. I’d been on the road for about two hours, and still had five or six to go. I’d just driven through Carson National Forest—the stretch of asphalt winding ahead of me, lying across the desert hills like ribbon. It was then that I realized I hadn’t seen any other cars for the last half hour.
I tend to be on the solitary end of the spectrum. I don’t mind being alone and often prefer it. And, in truth, I had been looking forward to this trip all by myself—with just my dogs and horse for company—for weeks. It would be a chance to get away from the demands of the kids and the stifling routine of daily life. A chance to be alone with nothing but my thoughts, the open road, and my iPod. No one to make bad music requests (really, if I hear Miley Cyrus’s Party in the U.S.A. one.more.time). No backseat driving. No bathroom stops except for me (and the dogs). It would be exactly what I needed. And the distance wasn’t a concern. I’ve made a lot of long solo road trips over the years–to Austin, to Arizona. One summer a couple years ago, I drove from New Mexico to Virginia alone.
But on this lonesome stretch of road, I found myself getting worried. Dave had told me before I left that the pressure on one of the trailer tires was low. “You should stop at the gas station before you drive very far and fill it.” I told him I would. But I didn’t. It was stupid. I should have. I had every intention of doing it, I really did. But then once I loaded Chama and was on the road, the idea of pulling over right away sounded so…so…slow. So I kept going. I told myself that I’d have to pee in an hour anyway, right when I’d be turning onto 285. There was a gas station on the corner. I’d stop there.
And I did. But right as I was pulling into the parking lot another car pulled in front of me and parked at the air station. The man who climbed out of the car looked like he’d been on an all-night bender. When he turned to look at me, I saw a huge bruise around his eye that looked suspiciously like a fist. I noticed the woman sitting in the car had a bruise around her eye also. Their tire was flat. I decided to keep driving.
But now, here I was, a good 50 miles from the next town, and not a soul in sight. What if I got a flat? I had a thousand-pound horse in the trailer. And although I have a special jack made specifically for horse trailers so you don’t have to offload the animal to change the tire, the fact was, I’d never changed a flat in my life—on any car, much less a trailer. I have roadside assistance through my insurance company, but I had no cell coverage out here in the middle of nowhere.
I realized that my shoulders had slowly inched up and were hovering around my ears.
This was silly, I told myself. I didn’t have a flat. My truck was running fine. My trailer was almost brand new. Besides, worrying solves nothing. What was that quote I saw posted on someone’s Facebook page once: Worry wastes creative energy on something you don’t want to happen.
So I willed my shoulders back down to their normal altitude and told myself everything would be fine. And everything was. No flat tires. No being stranded on the side of the road. I got to Walsenberg, Colorado, where I’d pick up the freeway, and decided to stop for lunch. I found a shady little park by the railroad tracks adjacent to the town welcome center, which looked like it hadn’t been open since the Carter administration. But it was quiet and no one was around—the perfect place to let the dogs out for a bit and give Chama a break from the jostling of a moving trailer. After the dogs had their little stretch, I put them back in the cab, lifting my 14-year-old dog, Barrabas, who can no longer jump. As I was lifting him, a van pulled up and parked a few spaces from us. A train was now chattering down the tracks, blowing its deafening whistle.
The van door opened and a 50-something woman emerged. “I had an old dog, too. I just put him down in February.”
“Oh, I’m sorry,” I replied. “That’s rough.”
“It was. Broke my heart.”
“I bet. When my dog dies, I’ll be a wreck. He’s the best dog we’ve ever had.”
We spend a few minutes talking about her dead dog. And then she says to me, “I have two rats now.”
Silence.
“They’re sewer rats. They live in the van. They’re really friendly.”
I want to run screaming down the street, but she’s nice and she’s got rats…so what? So instead I said, “I’ve heard that’s true about rats.” And I had. A couple people I know in research have said it’s hard to do experiments on rats because they tend to grow attached to their humans.
“Yeah, they come when I call them and everything.”
“Oh.”
“But I’m going to have to get rid of them.”
“Why’s that?”
“The smell.”
Silence.
“It’s awful. I clean their cage a lot. But still, the van smells.”
Imagining her rats in a cage in the back of her stinky van made me want to barf.
I did the “well-it-was-nice-talking-to-you” wave and started to walk away. But she kept talking, “Where you headed?”
I have a pretty good sense for people, I like to think. I’ve got a very strong creep radar. And that single question gave me the creepy vibe. I imagined her luring me into her stinky van and taking me to a trailer in the middle of nowhere that she shares with her boyfriend who says things like, “You’ve got a real purty mouth.”
I was vague, “Up near Denver.”
“Where’d you come from?”
“New Mexico.”
“How long have you been on the road?”
“A few hours.” This conversation was ending now. “I’m going to go grab some lunch. Have a good trip.” And I walked away, down Walsenberg’s main street lined with 19th century brick buildings that would be charming if they didn’t look so empty and sad. I found a diner and ducked in, where a woman the age of Methuselah sat in a booth alone in the corner and another woman the age of Methuselah’s oldest daughter stood behind the counter. I ordered a BLT and a Diet Coke.
“For here or to go?”
I didn’t have the heart to tell her that eating it there would depress me beyond the reach of an elephant-sized dose of Paxil. “To go, please.”
I walked back to my truck, hoping the Rat Whisperer was gone. She was. I opened Chama’s trailer door so he could see the sights. He sniffed my food eagerly. “You don’t eat meat,” I reminded him. I gave him a potato chip instead.
I sat on the curb next to him and continued to eat my sandwich. Then I saw a man walking down an alleyway adjacent to the park. He started crossing the grass toward me. I stood up, got out my keys.
“Hi ma’am.”
“Hi.” I said flatly, giving him a look that made it clear I had no interest in chatting. Because I knew this guy wanted something. And I knew he had a story.
“We’re trying to get my daughter up to Pueblo, and I’m trying to make some money. I have some real pretty jewelry I’d sell you real cheap.” He started to reach into his pocket.
“Not today,” I said, closing the trailer door and climbing into my truck. “Good luck.”
Up I-25 to my exit. Almost eight hours on the road. It was five o’clock. I was ready to be there. But I realized about a half hour after I exited that I was lost. Well, not lost, but I must have missed a turn. Gas station. I need to fill up anyway. As I did, I asked the guy at the pump next to me for directions.
I’m about to make a sweeping generalization, but I think it’s true: Don’t ask a man shorter than you for directions. Because even if he doesn’t know the answer, he’s never going to admit it. I think this is doubly true if you’re driving a one-ton diesel pickup truck and hauling a horse trailer and he’s driving a Lexus convertible.
“What’s the address?” he asked. “I’ll just type it into my GPS.”
I explained that there really wasn’t an address. It was a very big equestrian center, and the address would inevitably be the business office, which may or may not be anywhere close to where I needed to go. So instead I showed him the printed directions (yes, I drove using printed directions and an actual atlas, just like the pilgrims did). “I just need to find Bayou Gulch. Once I find that street, I can find the show grounds.”
He didn’t have a clue where Bayou Gulch was. But he couldn’t just say that. After a lot more talkity talk that was getting me nowhere, I just said, “You know what, I’m pretty sure I can find it. I think I just need to go back the direction I came. Thanks so much for your help.”
He actually seemed kind of pissed as he drove away.
So after a few more wrong turns I saw the equestrian center and pulled into the parking lot of the—you got it—business office, which of course was closed because it was after five. It’s a very fancy place and it was clear some sort of fundraising event was underway, complete with women in high heels and skirts and hats. I walked into this wearing my jeans with manure on the cuffs and a shirt smeared with green horse slobber and a baseball hat. I asked a very nice man who was clearly drunk whether he had any idea where the Western Area Complex of the show grounds were. He was taller than me, so he confessed that he did not. I wandered out of the building and saw a maintenance guy driving a golf cart. I flagged him down. Yes, he knew where the grounds were. He pointed me in the right direction and, finally, I arrived.
Offload the horse. Haul hay. Haul water buckets. Haul manure. Walk the dogs. Feed the dogs. Find the port-a-john. Ride the horse. Hot walk the horse. Feed the horse. Unhook the trailer and drive into town looking for a restaurant.
Chili’s.
Perfect.
I headed straight to the bathroom, where I washed my face and hands and arms. The water in the sink turned a soupy brown. I did an assessment in the mirror. I looked like a trucker. I went back to the hostess stand.
“How many?”
“Just one.”
“Oh. Well, wouldn’t you rather just sit in our lounge?” She gestured toward the bar. “You can seat yourself.”
“Okay.” So I did, in a booth facing a TV screen broadcasting a Steelers pre-season game.
The waiter came to my table. A cute, enthusiastic guy in his early 20s, just like a Chili’s waiter should be.
“Will someone be joining you?”
“No, just me tonight.”
“Oh!” he seemed excited by this. “Lonewolfing it tonight, huh?”
“Yep.”
***
After dinner, I went back to the show grounds. I filled Chama’s water buckets and walked him again, trying to keep his muscles loose for competition the next day. I walked the dogs again, too. Finally, at 11 o’clock, I brushed my teeth in the spigot near my trailer and threw some water on my face. I put on a clean t-shirt and shorts and climbed into the bunk of the trailer, where I had a mattress and pillow and sheets and a comforter. It felt luxurious.
As I lie there, I thought about how many times in my life I’d fantasized about this: Just me.
I’ve had elaborate daydreams where I leave Dave and the kids and go live on my own—with just my horse and my dogs. How many times had I imagined going to sleep without tucking anyone in, or signing school forms, or making lunches, or double checking homework? How many times had I daydreamed about waking up alone, without a husband to consult on decisions? With no one but myself to answer to? Without anyone to disappoint? Too many to count.
I love my husband and children. But the weight of that love can feel impossible to bear at times. An anchor chain dragging me under despite my arms trying to pull me to the surface.
But lying there by myself, I didn’t feel weightless. I didn’t feel free. I felt lonely. Desperately. I kept thinking of how funny Dave would’ve found the rat woman, and how, if he had been with me, he would’ve spent the next hour of the drive making me laugh as he recounted, with his ice dry wit, all the creepy things she would’ve said had we stayed at the park and talked to her. If he were with me, I wouldn’t have missed that turn; my trailer tires would be the right pressure. I thought of how the kids would’ve loved the pony that was boarded a few stalls down from Chama, and how we would’ve put pennies on the railroad tracks in Walsenberg.
I remember reading once that wolves will forgo food and sex for the privilege of staying in the pack. That’s how important it is to belong, to feel a connection to others. Humans are no different. It’s a need that vibrates deep within our chests and pulses through our fingertips. It’s no less vital than air and water.
I thought of my waiter that night. What was it he said? Lonewolfing it tonight, huh? I should have told him no. I couldn’t possibly be. There’s no such thing.